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Twist of peppermint

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Red-nosed reindeer may be immortalized in merry carols, but candy canes — those striped, peppermint delights of yore — hold a special place in every child’s heart. Yet for all their holiday charm, candy canes never quite live up to their nostalgic promise once you’re past the age of lollipops. “I take one lick of a candy cane — and that’s enough,” says Emily Luchetti, the pastry chef at San Francisco’s Waterbar and Farallon restaurants. “It’s a sticky mess, and you have the whole thing in your hand.”

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