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Sweet history

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Desserts are the sweet stuff of which memories are made, particularly in a holiday season, a time typically so rich with recollections. Salute that spirit with a historic dessert rooted in the North American past. For while tastes, trends and technology come and go, the country’s sweet tooth has remained ever keen.

Why? Michael Krondl, a New York City food historian and author of “Sweet Invention: A History of Dessert,” says our continuing hunger for dessert is based on two things: childhood and celebrations. “Sweetness is one of the first tastes we love,” he says, referring to childhood. As for celebrations, “it used to be anything sweet was expensive because of the sugar” so sugar was saved for important things, like wedding cakes, birthday cakes and Christmas cookies.

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