This review first appeared in the online blog, Winemaker’s Journal.

Head South if you want a great time and the spicy tastes of Mexico.

No not that far south, but to South the southern Mexico-flavored restaurant seemingly way out of place in Bavaria-themed Leavenworth.

But even native Bavarians get tired of wienerschnitzel, sauerbraten and Octoberfest beer, and South is a popular place for locals and tourists alike.

One step through the door at 913 Front St. and you know this is a fun spot. It’s almost always loud and filled with laughter. Owners Cappy Bond and Price Gledhill have put together a tasty and intentionally healthy menu of creative Latin American dishes they’ve gleaned from their travels and spiced them up with a serve-yourself salsa bar. Speaking of bar, South offers a selection of about 50 different tequilas that can be had straight or in a wide selection of mixed drinks, as well your pick of tap and bottled beers.

When our tasting crew arrived last fall, manager Allen Glasenapp started us off with one of our all-time favorite appetizers, South’s fiery habanero shrimp skewers. Now this is a way to get the party started. Very spicy, but flavorful large shrimp served with a cooling guacamole dip and cabbage slaw.

Our entrees — the three of us split two that were both huge and filling — included the creamy poblano cod, Pacific wild codfish bathed in a creamy and mildly spicy poblano pepper sauce. With rice, black beans and sauteed vegetables, this was Mexican comfort food at its best.

Next came a carne asada burrito bowl. Glasenapp said the Angus beef skirt steak used in the dish is marinated for two days.

The Tres Leches Cake is a festive dessert that would be perfect for any birthday party or other special occasion. Sponge cake soaked in three milks and frosted with whipped cream, it was a delight, although we were way too stuffed to finish this delicious treat.

South is a saucy and welcome deviation from too much oompaland.

Foothills magazine held its first Dream Meal competition last fall. I was fortunate enough to join Wenatchee World copy editor and former food editor Rochelle Feil and Annette Pitts, executive director of the Cascade Loop Scenic Highway, both serious foodies, in reviewing dishes at several local restaurants. The winners were announced in the January-February issue of Foothills. Here are reviews I wrote about each of the restaurants. I’ll be posting one review a week. We’re hoping several more local eateries will participate in this year’s competition. Rick