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Tomato-bread salad happily accommodates every whim

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When local tomatoes are at their peak, as they are right now, my favorite dishes to make with them are gazpacho and panzanella, the latter being an Italian bread and tomato salad studded with crisp onion and cooling cucumber.

They are similar, the two dishes, in their ingredients and their prep (lots of chopping, no cooking), differing mostly in their final form: the Spanish soup being whizzed to a coarse or smooth puree, the Italian salad staying chunky. Maybe that’s…

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