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Bubbling brown butter: Add a touch of elegance and luxury to your favorite dishes

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Butter has to be one of the hardest-working ingredients in the Western larder. It makes cakes tender and sauces silken. It’s a splendid spread all by itself. It’s a reliable fat for pan-frying foods that cook quickly. But heat it too long, and its milk proteins and salts will start to burn.

Some call that brown butter. I call it black magic.

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