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Inspired by an affection for asparagus

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I like to think that I’m the kind of open-minded cook who loves all ingredients equally. But I’m not.

There are two foods for which I have such a strong affection that we build family celebrations around them. The first is Dungeness crab. The other is asparagus.

I’m not talking about just any asparagus but specifically the jumbo spears grown by Zuckerman’s Farm up by Stockton, Calif. They’re as big around as your thumb, available only a few weeks every…

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